Algarve Dreamin'

 Today was the first day that we woke up to grey skies but by noon the steady winds had blown the clouds away and we enjoyed more fabulous sunshine and blue sky in all directions.

Heading out from Sagres, our first stop was at Cape St Vincent, a high rocky point that juts out into the ocean and which is said to be the last piece of their homeland seen by Portuguese sailors as they set off into the unknown. It is a stunning spot, with waves crashing against the base of the cliffs and a beautifully restored red lighthouse dominating the clifftop. We watched a daring (or crazy) fisherman casting his long line out and over the edge of the cliff. I hope his catch was worth it. 

I was also struck by the range of colourful wild flowers and succulents stubbornly clinging to any piece of rocky soil they could find, a beautiful tableau against an ochre-coloured backdrop. A protected reserve, the area contains dozens of plant species found only in Portugal.

Our road then took us north along the Algarve's western coast, home to some of Europe's finest surfing beaches. Bordeira Beach, our next stop, was down a long and winding road over a flat stretch of vegetation. The usual crowd of vagabond campervans in the parking lot told us we were in the right place to watch some spectacular waves. We were not disappointed. The stunning beach stretches about 700 metres from the parking lot to the water, and includes a small estuary easily negotiated at low tide. 

It was a long walk over the sand to a spot where we could sit under the cliffs, protected from the wind and enjoy watching  the surfers trying their luck in the waves. Their persistence amazed me as they waited for the perfect ride, got up for  barely a few seconds before being washed off, only to keep trying again and again.  The cold water did not deter them.

This was not a beach for families, as the water was extremely rough, but the extensive stretch of sand was a wonder to behold.

Feeling by now ready for some lunch, we trudged back across the sand and drove to the small village of Carrapateira where there are a few good cafes that cater to the surf crowd. Offerings were healthy for a change so we opted for salads and were treated to what has to be the most beautiful one I have ever seen, taken outside on the small village square.

In the five minutes it took to wash my hands my husband had struck up a conversation (surprise, surprise) with a couple at the neighbouring table, who gave us some advice on another beach to investigate. This was Arrifana, at the end of a stunning but of course hair-raising drive up some steep hills with lookouts over the cliffs to the rocky beaches below. This time the beach was accessed by walking a winding path down from the clifftop parking lot and was a dramatic contrast to the wide sands at Bordeiro. Black basalt cliffs formed the backdrop to a curved bay; tumbled dark rocks piled up at the base of the cliffs had been smoothed by years of action by the sea.

While still a popular surf beach, today the waves were quieter and more suitable for families and a surf school. We spent an hour watching young kids jumping in the waves at the water's edge and thought of our grandchildren. 

Soon it was back to our hotel for another great meal and excellent Portuguese wine from the Alentejo region. Fish is king here and we have eaten it every day. In fact, we are eating far too much of everything. The breads are amazing, as are the local cheeses, and don't even get me started on the sweets and pastries...... 

I need to comment on the fact that everywhere we have been in Portugal is exceptionally clean and tidy, from city streets to beaches and from hotels to cafes to restrooms. Litter is practically non-existent, even in Lisbon, where we were told crews come out at night to scour the pavements. 

Toronto, take note.